Sukhumvit Road is not only one of the longest boulevards in Thailand, but one of the longest boulevards in the world. Towards the west end it changes name to Phloen Chit Road and Rama I Road as it enters the Siam Square area, but to the east it runs most of the way to the Cambodian border. The sois are numbered from west to east, with odd numbers north and even numbers south of Sukhumvit Road. The sois on the north and south sides of Sukhumvit don't line up; for example, Soi 33 is opposite Soi 24. Confusing is that these sois also have names of their own (for example, Soi 55 is better known as Soi Thong Lo) and these sois can also have sois of their own (such as Thong Lo Soi 1).
Looking at the high-rise apartment buildings, the Skytrain and the perennial traffic jam on Sukhumvit Road, it is hard to believe that this area used to consist of rice fields until World War II. After the war, this area became developed with large contemporary villas catering to the upper class. As property values kept rising, developers have been buying more and more land and cashed them in by constructing big apartment high-rises. The construction of the BTS Skytrain in 1999, covering most of Sukhumvit Road, has increased the popularity of this district even more.
The lowered-numbered sois (roughly between Soi 1 and 63) are a popular residential area for western expatriates and affluent Thais. It is densely packed with shopping centres, restaurants and hotels. The fleshpots of Nana Entertainment Plaza (in Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (between Soi 21 and 23) are also in this area, as are plenty of more (and less) salubrious bars. Also, the pavement of Sukhumvit itself has become a huge market carrying everything from luggage to fake Rolex watches, and after midnight they turn into roadside bars and pubs. Sukhumvit offers the best dining in Bangkok, from five-star dining to street stands, the variety of choices and tastes are almost overwhelming. Japanese nationals can be found in the area Soi 21 and upwards, but most tend to congregate around Soi 55. Indians have settled around Soi 12, while Arabs are grouped at Soi 3/1, which informally is known as Soi Arab. After Soi 63, Thais take over again, though this might change when the Skytrain extension is completed in late 2011.
South of Sukhumvit's sois lies Khlong Toei, which, if recognised at all, foreigners only know for the Khlong Toei Market. Khlong Toei is a borough, a market and a port, all named after the canal that flows through the area. It means "canal of pandan" as that plant used to grow along the southern bank of the canal. A large part of it was filled up to make way for Rama IV Road in 1947. South (and under) the Chalerm Maha Nakhon Expressway are the infamous Khlong Toei slums, generally unexplored by even the most adventurous travellers. At the banks of the Chao Phraya river is the Khlong Toei Port, which has a history dating back to the ninth century, when it connected Bangkok with the cities upstream the river. Since 1981, it has lost most of its economic relevance when the larger Laem Chabang Port near Pattaya took over business.
If you are one of the more sporty types who like to keep active on your vacation, the national sport of Muay Thai or Thai Boxing is a great way to stay in shape. Other learning activities include cooking and meditating.
Chacrit Muay Thai School , Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, at Washington Square), ☎ +66 8 9499-2052. M-Sa 09:00-20:00. Accredited Muay Thai school teaching Muay Thai to novices and professionals. Academic visas can be arranged for long term foreign students. 500-5,500 baht.
Face Cooking School, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo), ☎ +66 2 713-6048. M-Sa 08:45-13:00, 13:15-16:30. Face Bangkok is some of the most impressive dining venues in the city, and being able to learn cooking here is a good option. They have three different restaurants offering Thai, Indian and Japanese food, and thus the cooking school offers classes in these cuisines. 2,500 baht.
World Fellowship of Buddhists, 2F, 616 Benchasiri Park, Soi Methi Niwet (BTS Phrom Phong, off Soi Sukhumvit 24), ☎ +66 2 661-1284(-90). First Sunday of the month 14:00-17:30. Offers meditation classes in English every afternoon on the first Sunday of every month. The office also provides information on places to learn and practice meditation in Thailand. Classes and information are free of charge. Free.
There is a huge selection of places to eat in and around Sukhumvit and its side sois, although prices tend to be on the high side by Thai standards. With practically every cuisine in the world represented, this is the place to break your pad thai diet and sample some of the best Japanese, Lebanese or Indian food you will ever eat.
Cataholic Café, Sukhumvit 39, ☎ 084 269 7945. Cataholic Café is the café that has many cats (about 8-10 cats) to make you enjoy. Cataholic Café is on New Petchburi Road (Sukhumvit 39), Bangkok. Business Hours Tue-Fri: 12.00 am-9.00 pm Sat-Sun: 11.30 am - 9.00 pm Close every Monday. The restaurant is decorated in warm white color with Japanese style , used furniture like wooden tables and colorful soft cushions. The café area is not very wide. It is a small coffee shop but it has becomes one of the most popular café because of their cats service. Before enter to the cafe, you need to wash your hands with alcohol gel to clean and safety of the cat . The important concept is to make customer feel relaxing by playing with cats while you enjoy the dessert. With free Wi-Fi, you can use your camera to take a photo with cats and sharing to social network.
CityLight Coffee, 21/2 Sukhumvit Road Soi 4 (BTS Nana, Exit #2, left on Soi 4), ☎ 02-0232071. Tue-Sat 7:30am to 10:30pm. Comfortable and inviting coffee shop in Nana that uses locally sourced 100% arabica beans, Italian equipment, carrot cake, and freshly baked muffins. Some unique cold creations on the menu like the "Sukhumvit Sling" - a remarkable fizzy limeade mixed with market fresh mint leaves and passion fruit. Wall artwork showcases the Bangkok skyline. Live acoustic music most Friday evenings. drinks 45 to 125 baht.
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